Visiting Mumbai Docks- 2009

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  Visiting Mumbai Docks- 2009 (post ISPS). 
  WE Cadets on T.S.Dufferin in the 60s in our training period were expected to visit ships on shore leave days and write notes & assignments to widen our ship knowledge .Our Dufferin  uniform gained us easy entry. Ships officers were always kind and explained a lot and usually very hospitable and often invited us to stay for a meal too-
  
  2000 era -post ISPS:
  A visit to Mumbai today can be now quite a test on nerves. At it is, commuting and visiting for us Outstation wallahs is tough as I learnt one trip. A simple Mumbai port entry pass on came after 5 hrs & much explaining, despite me having a Chennai Port Trust Photo Pass –-Only got the visitors pass late  in the afternoon and me cooling my self in the local office with Nimbu pani .
   

  Wasted a whole day- managed by 2 pm to visit the port and later it was just Rush back to Airport. Easier to get a Visa to Timbuktoo or some remote restricted place!!!!
  Some recalls:
  Did this Indira( Alexandra)i Victoria & Princess Docks visit after more than 15 years and it was like this: -Enter Docks via Frere Rd –Alexandra Gate South entrance is now walled –
  I believe the V&P docks area is being reclaimed and used for Container storage !
  Nearby is the Cruise Passenger Terminal ---recent era. Then moved to south side Seaface- Went up to the shore side off Ballard Pier and looked over Cross Island and in the distance Butcher Is, Pir Pow and the Karanjia & Khanderi peaks of our Dufferin Watches and especially recalling taking Compass bearings – Vessels at Anchor the same as before--Could not help noticing the number of Luxury boats & Yachts moored. Also, OSVs replace the older small cargo freighters –now all in the past
  
  The V&P Docks of our era was then reserved for Coastal trade ships --- now only OSVs etc and a few older craft undergoing repairs or laid up. The place had a deserted look and my batch mates told me .. had warned me of many changes.  Yes, Change is inevitable –but this?
  Still, some of it will live in our Memories for ever..
   
  But, somethings don’t change -like Dhows and the common man
  

  
  

  Dhow msv “Makdumi” was loading Onions in docks for Mid East ports I suppose; It reminded me of Dhows unloading "dates" at Haybunder on our visits. Here was this rustic Dhow which had a Radar & obviously GPS .
  I very briefly said Hello to the old Skipper & Crew working on the deck from the jetty  who were a bit astonished when they found an old man like me say from a distance  'Salaam aly-kum' bhai --and left with a salutation of Khuda Hafiz; I did not board this craft nor take any pics as ISPS is in force ( better know as Iss- Piss) and the Port maintains it -completely  discourages photography and a very strict security maintained  on all normal activities; even a social courtesy or nostalgia call- to a Harbour area by retired Seafarer

  Dear God- where are we today ?

  THOUGHTS
  Such a sad sight seeing suspicion replace affection , mistrust - replace trust, friendliness  displace all harmony and hospitality- but the Dhow crew  were seemingly pleasant -maybe saw in me a strange case!! Unexplained -and I left.
   
  Recalled with much nostalgia an era when we as young cadets spent sundays scouting around ships on foot and Learning about general cargo ships and the work  in the Dock areas.  Salaam Mumbai
   

  EPILOGUE:
  Recall in youth as a Cadet in 1965 on Jag Laxmi, whilst passing the Galleys the crew and cooks.. such people esp the Engine crews would lovingly say -Aao- Baito na; Khaana  kayega Baba /Beta ? 
  We used to be called Apprentices then -A'Pentis for short, but most elder seman would call us as Beta.  It always deeply touched me to see so much hospitality and the warmth of an era long gone.
  
  Some years later in 1972, whilst working as a Ch. Officer at Sea,  the crews cook called the Bhandary would send fresh Rotis and Veg.  subzi for my wife who was/is a strict Vegetarian; --what a nice, kind  gesture and refused to take a Rupee-said " Kya Saab --something like Bibi ji ke liya / Insanyat etc.
   I was just 27 yrs old then but realised with gratitude -what a loving gesture that was. Hospitality and kindness were always seen ..
  We also tried to reciprocate in some way and help and on spl festival days shared Cakes and sweets with the Crew. 
  
  Acceptance comes with comradeship of the Sea & Seafarers stayed together then; Faith, Community , Culture and Time Barriers all apart did not affect us.
   
  Comradeship & bonding of the simple seafarer of old--whither –now all lost in security. That was all another era..long forgotten
  Today even shore leave passes are being curtailed and often it reads more like 'Sore' Leave – not Shore leave!! 
  Time Changes--but the Sea and the challenges remain.

  Rgds,

  TR

  

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